Caerleon (Isca)
 King Arthur |  Roman Britain |
Along with Chester and York, Caerleon formed one of the three permanent legionary bases in Roman Britain, and as the Roman fortress of Isca (often referred to as the "city of the legions") was home to the II Legio Augusta. The fortress was established in AD74/5 by Sextus Julius Frontinus at the behest of the Emperor Vespasian to pacify and control Welsh insurgents.
Regular excavations of the 50 acre site have provided many details of its lay-out. The outer perimeter comprised an earth rampart with stone facing, topped most probably with a stone palisade, all of which was encompassed by a deep outer ditch. A section of this defensive wall is visible in the south-western corner of the modern town rising to a height of about 12ft.
The interior of the fortress was occupied by rows of barrack-blocks arranged in pairs facing each other, only four of which survive now. This is, however, merely a fraction of the total and for visitors to fully comprehend the massive size of this fortress one has to imagine 24 of these huge barrack-blocks stretching towards the north corner, then 24 more at the opposite end with a further 16 in the centre; each barrack was designed to house a centuria of 80 men. In addition, there are spacious quarters at the end of each building for officers, centurions and junior staff. These remain the only surviving legionary barracks in Europe, and many of the excavated artefacts can be viewed in the town's Legionary Museum.
The outstanding monument at Roman Caerleon, however, is the justly famous amphitheatre; constructed in AD80 it was contemporary with its more illustrious cousin in Rome, the Colosseum. Oval in shape, its lower storey was constructed of solid buttressed stone topped with levels of timber seating. This military arena was primarily used for military exercises and displays, with the troops processing through the two principal entrances - there were six lesser entrances for spectators. No doubt, blood sports and gladiatorial combat were also staged here in front of an audience of some 6000 spectators. The legionary companies detailed to construct the amphitheatre have inscribed their names on some of the stones in the arena wall.
Modern Newport encroaches upon Caerleon, inevitably destroying some of its character, but enough remains to us of the Roman encampment itself, called Isca, to appreciate its sheer size and importance to the region. Broadway, starting opposite the 'Legionary Museum' of Roman relics in the High Street, follows almost exactly, the route of the original Roman road through the camp. At the furthest point from the High Street, remnants of the fortress wall and defensive ditch run to right and left, and here are substantial remains of an amphitheatre where Romans watched gladiators fight, and the legionaries trained - the stadium seated the entire garrison of 6000. Excavations have also unearthed a Roman bath house and the barracks of ancient Isca.
Caerleon's position near the Welsh-English border made it strategically important, and it was fought over many times by a variety of armies - Saxons, Vikings, Normans, Welsh and English have all shed blood on the fields of Caerleon. In the 11th century, the Normans built a castle there on the high ground shortly after the Conquest of 1066. Sadly, all that remains to us is the mound on which it stood.
Alfred, Lord Tennyson stayed at the 16th cent Hanbury Arms beside the quick flowing Usk, whilst working on his Arthurian epic 'Idylls of the King'.
According to the 12th century chronicler, Geoffrey of Monmouth, King Arthur held court at Caerleon. The magician Merlin also has very close associations with Wales, in fact, the town of Carmarthen is allegedly his birthplace - the Welsh for Carmarthen is Caerfyrddin meaning 'Merlin's City'. According to local tradition the great wizard's father reputedly ruled the surrounding area during the period immediately following the Roman evacuation of Britain, about AD450. The rotting stump of an ancient oak tree, known as 'Merlin's Oak', used to stand in Priory Street. In 1978 the local council bravely decided to remove it to make way for road improvements despite the magician's curse upon it: 'When Merlin's oak shall tumble down, Then shall fall Carmarthen town'. Local tradition has Merlin buried in a cave beneath the town, known as 'Merlin's Hill Cave'.
Eight miles to the east of Caerleon is Caerwent, the site of Venta Silurum, a civilian city built as part of the Roman policy of pacification and fraternisation. The town walls (in places 15ft in height) and gates are well preserved, and there are partial remains of two houses and a temple - the parish church of Caerwent houses some Roman relics.