Ely
 Cathedrals |
Situated high above the Fens, Ely was in all respects an isolated "island" until the Fenland was drained in the 17th century. Its name is derived from the Saxon Elge or Elig, meaning 'eel island', because of the large number of eels that exist in the area. The town owes its existence to St Etheldreda, Queen of Northumbria, who in AD 673 founded a monastery on the site around which the settlement of Ely was established. Etheldreda remained its abbess until her death in 679.
At the time of the Norman Conquest in 1066 Ely was surrounded by marshland, which could only be crossed with the help of the local 'fen-slodgers', men who knew the area's pathways. In 1070, Hereward the Wake used this inaccessibility to his military advantage. It helped him to hold out against the Norman invaders for many weeks as the Ely marshes forced William the Conqueror to undertake a prolonged siege before finally driving Hereward from the island fortress. The Victorian writer Charles Kingsley presented Hereward as the last of the English who "never really bent their necks to the Norman yoke". About 10 yrs after the siege William appointed a fellow Norman, Simean, to be Abbot of Ely, at the same time planning a new cathedral, the Church of the Holy & Undivided Trinity.
Ely's Norman cathedral, begun by Simean in 1081, took over a 100 years to complete, finally being finished in 1189. However, the long wait was worthwhile for this remarkable example of Romanesque architecture soars above the surrounding Fenland and is visible for miles. It is undoubtedly Ely's most significant landmark. In 1322, the original Norman tower collapsed to be replaced by a unique octagonal lantern, the Octagon. The Octagon was designed by Alan of Walsingham, one of the monks, and constructed by Edward III's carpenter, Master William Hurley. This remarkable building took 30 years to complete. Its oak timber framework weighs an estimated 400 tons and stands 9 ft above the floor. Its construction remains one of the wonders of the medieval world, and the effect created when looking upward into this Gothic dome is quite breathtaking.
Ely Cathedral contains a number of other notable features including the 14th century Lady Chapel with its brilliant English Gothic fan vaulting, the largest in the country. The Prior's Door and St Ovin's Cross, are the only remaining pieces of Saxon stonework. Most of the cathedral's original Norman work survives in the west front, nave and transepts. The nave is one of the longest in England at 284 ft, complemented by the 72 ft high pointed wooden ceiling. The 13th century presbytery houses the relics of St Etheldreda, founder of the original monastery. Also, at the east end are three chantry chapels, one of which is a charmingly elaborate Renaissance structure from 1533.
Among other cathedral buildings are the three-storey Porta, a 14th century gatehouse, the principal entrance to the Benedictine priory, and the 13th century St Mary's Church. Near the latter, visitor's can locate Oliver Cromwell's House at 29 St Mary's St, a timber-framed former vicarage, exhibiting a small display reflecting the Protector's 10 yr sojourn in Ely from 1636-47, he was employed as a tythe collector. Apart from Hampton Court, it is the only remaining house where Oliver Cromwell and his family are known to have lived, parts of which date back to the 13th century. Just outside the cathedral is the Almonry, a 12th century vaulted undercraft where visitors can rest and lunch. The Museum of Stained Glass, housed in the south Triforium of the cathedral, is the only museum of stained glass in the country, containing over 100 original panels ranging from 1240 to the present day.
Elsewhere, King's School, founded by Henry VIII (1509-47), claims descent from the monastic school founded in AD 970. It is one of England's oldest schools, attended in 1010 by Edward the Confessor, as the young Prince Edward; later, when progressing to the throne, Edward granted a charter to the town of Ely. Goldsmith's Tower and Sacrist's Gate, in the High Street, were built in 1325 by Alan of Walsingham. The Old Gaol, in Market Street, houses Ely Museum with nine galleries tracing the town's history from the Ice Age to the present. A grassy mound in Cherry Hill Park is all that remains of Ely's 12th century castle.