Enniskillen
 Castles |
Enniskillen, the county town of Fermanagh, has the most extraordinary location standing on the very edge of Lower Lough Erne, with the old town centre isolated on an island in the River Erne, connected to both banks by a number of bridges. The river is a link between the Lower and Upper Loughs. The strategic strength of this water-bound position has long been recognised. Indeed the town takes its name from Innis Ceithleann (‘the island of Kathleen'), wife of mythical Balor, who sought refuge here after defeat in battle.
The Maguire clan, originally rulers of a kingdom to the west of Fermanagh, were forced eastward in the early 15 th century by warlike neighbours and settled in the region of Enniskillen. They built the first castle on the island and this stronghold became the medieval seat of the new Maguire kingdom for the next two centuries. The castle was laid siege and captured in 1594 by the O'Neills, but shortly afterwards retaken by the Maguires.
Enniskillen was to become strategically crucial as the determination of the English to dominate Ireland increased during the 16 th century. Being the principal crossing point through the waterways, it was only one of three land routes into Ulster available to invaders. After the Flight of the Earls in 1607, Maguire Castle was ‘confiscated' by the English and William Cole, a ‘planter' from Cornwall, was appointed governor of Enniskillen in the same year - his family have since borne the title Earl of Enniskillen. William Cole built Enniskillen Castle on the site of the former Maguire Castle, which was damaged by the siege of 1594; the only original 15 th century part of the building is the lower storey of the keep, now the regimental museum. Cole's rebuilding programme indicates a Scottish influence where the turrets are corbelled out from the angles of the main wall.
Fermanagh was an unruly county and hard to govern even for the Irish. The English and Scots planters were obliged to build a ring of castles around the Lough to maintain control of their domain. Enniskillen Castle was the most important of these and Cole was given sizable grants from the English Crown to enlarge and further fortify his castle. The Planters also built an Established church, another fort and a royal school, turning the island into a British colonial town. It became a Loyalist stronghold, which successfully defended itself against an Irish uprising during the Great Rebellion of 1641, and again in 1689 when attacked by Jacobite troops. Indeed, the Loyalists of Enniskillen were so highly regarded that they formed a regiment that William of Orange specifically chose as his personal guard at the Battle of the Boyne. In the 18 th century Enniskillen proved to be of key military importance with the threat of French invasion through the northwest of Ireland. Two famous British regiments, the Inniskilling Dragoons and the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers, take their name from this loyal town - a unique phenomenon.
Another predominantly Catholic border-town, Enniskillen does not have the old-world charm of Londonderry, but rather the peaceful, friendly, quietly busy air of a smart market town, more rural than urban. The war-memorial standing by the East Bridge, scene of a notorious IRA explosion on Remembrance Sunday 1987, appears little damaged by the incident. The castle itself houses the Watergate History & Heritage Centre, depicting life between the 15 th - 17 th centuries through models and audiovisual exhibits, archaeological displays in the arcaded barracks, and in the keep.
The old island town is lined with confident Victorian and Edwardian town houses, thriving shops and smart pub fronts. Much of Enniskillen's character comes from wealth based on the care of a colonial presence, British influence is evident everywhere. Charles I in 1626 founded the stately Portora Royal School, overlooking the town, the present building dates from 1777. Famous old boys include Oscar Wilde, pride of the school until his trial for homosexuality, and Samuel Beckett. Just off the High street, the wonderfully renovated Buttermarket dates from 1835, and now provides a venue for a range of local artistes and craftsmen to display their wares.