Gloucester
The ancient Roman town of Glevum is now the flourishing modern city of Gloucester; its long and distinguished history is evident in the wealth of historic buildings still remaining to us, the most impressive of which is the majestic Norman cathedral. Gloucester's present day prosperity is partly due to its historical sites, and partly due to the revitalisation that has taken place in recent years, particularly around its old dockland area.
The new Roman settlement of Glevum had become an important military base and played a vital role in the invasion of Wales during the 1 st century AD, confining rebellious Celts and Britons to the bleak uplands of rural Wales. The fortification developed as a meeting-place of Roman roads and became a rich agricultural centre in the early centuries AD; its location can still be seen in the modern street plan now known as Gloucester Cross, where the four streets of Westgate, Northgate, Eastgate and Southgate converge. Unfortunately, almost the only visible remains of Roman settlement are coins, pottery and other objects displayed in the City Museum; all else is either still buried or long destroyed. In the 6 th century, marauding Saxons fired the Roman buildings and routed Christian communities in the town. Gloucester's true revival did not begin until Ethelbert ruled in Kent in the mid 9 th century. There is a suggestion, based on a passage by the Venerable Bede, that St Augustine travelled to Gloucestershire to meet the British bishops at Aust. As a result, the Christian faith regained its strength and vigour and the county, especially Gloucester, became rich in abbeys and churches. It was in Gloucester that William the Conqueror took the decision to commission the Domesday Book in 1085, and to rebuild a former Saxon abbey; importantly, he also instigated the construction of a splendid new church, the forerunner of Gloucester Cathedral.
The true glory of Gloucester is its cathedral, one of the most beautiful buildings in Britain. Construction began in 1089, replacing an earlier abbey, and the Norman core of the building was not completed until 1260. Later medieval craftsmen beautified it further in the 13 th century, and the magnificent pinnacled tower was added in the 15 th century. The Norman nave, 174 ft long, is lined with colossal pillars supporting Romanesque triforium and clerestory, and two of the west bays in the nave date from 1421. Transepts and choir, remodelled in the mid 14 th century to house the tomb of the murdered King Edward II, are amongst the earliest examples of Perpendicular architecture; Edward was murdered at nearby Berkeley Castle in 1327 by his queen and her lover. The choir is dominated by the huge east window, the largest stained-glass window in Britain, measuring 72ft x 38ft; it depicts the Coronation of the Virgin, created as a memorial to those who died at the Battle of Crecy in 1346. The 14 th century cloisters are perhaps the most perfect in Britain; inspired craftsmanship has bequeathed us exquisite fan vaulting with delicate tracery of the highest order. Apart from Edward II, lying in his elaborately carved alabaster tomb, King Osric, who founded the earlier abbey in 681, and Robert, Duke of Normandy and the son of William the Conqueror, dating from 1134, also lie in state. An excellent view of the 225ft cathedral tower can be had from the cloisters garden, this bell tower contains the heaviest medieval bell in the land. An exhibition depicts the complete history of Gloucester Cathedral and there is a display of church plate from the Anglican Treasury.
The original nucleus of the city around Gloucester Cross contains some fine early buildings. The Norman cruciform Church of St Mary de Crypt, has a tall central tower and high arched windows from the Perpendicular period. Inside are 17 th and 18 th century monuments. A near neighbour is the 19 th century Guildhall in Eastgate Street. Blackfriars Priory is perfectly preserved, with its timber roof and vast nave it still maintains much of its 13 th century character. St Mary's Gateway is the western entrance to the original abbey precinct; a 13 th century building with Norman vaulting it is probably the oldest abbey almonry. A little to the north, standing in Priory Road, is St Oswald's Priory, the oldest religious building in Gloucester after the cathedral crypt; an arch in the nave arcade may date from 10 th century.
During the 14 th and 15 th centuries, three great inns were established in Gloucester to cater for the pilgrims who came to visit the tomb of Edward II. Two of these remain today; the magnificent New Inn founded by a monk from the abbey in 1450, is a timber-framed house with a courtyard, around which run galleries on the upper floor. Lady Jane Grey was allegedly crowned queen here in 1553. It is situated close to Gloucester Cross in Northgate Street, while the Fleece Hotel in Westgate Street has a stone-vaulted undercroft, and was built in the 12 th century. During the Civil War of 1642-9 the imposing four-storey Maverdine House was occupied by the commander of the Parliamentarian garrison. Despite most of Wessex being of Royalist persuasion, the strategically important city of Gloucester held out for Cromwell, and survived a month-long siege by an army under the personal command of Charles I. The Fountain Inn, dating from the 17 th century, has a bas-relief of William III on its front wall; he is claimed to have ridden his horse up the inn's stairs.
The Gloucester City Museum and Art Gallery contains a treasure of rare and beautiful artefacts originating from both the city and county of Gloucester. Among the displays is the famous Birdlip Mirror; superbly engraved and dating from about AD 25, it remains one of the finest examples of Celtic bronze craftsmanship in Britain. There are also two Roman tombstones, but perhaps most impressive is the gallery floor, cut away to reveal the Roman city wall which passes under the building. Paintings by Breugel, Gainsborough and Turner are included in the art collection. The House of the Tailor of Gloucester was used by Beatrix Potter to illustrate a story of mice who helped a tailor; now it is a sign for the house that became a museum devoted to Beatrix Potter, and to her association with Gloucester. The 16 th century timber-framed Bishop Hooper's Lodging, is thought to be the place where the martyred Protestant Bishop spent his last night before being burnt at the stake in 1555; today the building is a part of a complex housing the highly regarded Gloucester Folk Museum. Here, the social history of Gloucester and its county are brought to life in a series of beautifully laid out displays.
From the mid 19 th century onwards Gloucester Docks suffered a steady decline and by the end of the 1970's were virtually derelict; a radical solution was required to secure the area's future. The late 20 th century saw an ambitious project of renovation transform the 23-acre site into a vibrant cultural centre very well worth visiting. The handsome old warehouse buildings have been converted, and there is a stylish new shopping area constructed on the waterfront. An attractive Antiques Centre is housed in a restored 19 th century warehouse standing in the north-east corner of the rejuvenated docklands. Gloucester's old Victoria Dock is now a thriving marina.
For further information see - http://www.thecityofgloucester.co.uk/