Gower Peninsula
Situated beyond the Mumbles is the rocky fist of the Gower peninsula lying in a secluded world of its own. In 1956 it was deservedly designated Britain's first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and as such has remained a favourite destination for visitors to South Wales over the years. The Gower offers three National Nature Reserves and 21 sites of Special Scientific Interest, in addition to the series of unspoilt sandy beaches and sheltered bays adorning its southern and western coastline.
The Gower's sheltered Mediterranean-like switchback shoreline plunges and soars out of pine-clad limestone bays, dotted with occasional palms. Around the headland from the Mumbles is Langland Bay, popular with surfers but also a safe family beach where glistening rock-pools are refreshed daily, stranded by the outgoing tide. Neighbouring Caswell Bay, a calm sweep of azure blue, gently laps upon its sandy beach nestling beneath a high shrubby headland. From here, travelling west, a scenic footpath drops down to the tiny old smugglers' lair of Brandy Cove, inaccessible by car.
At Parkmill, the coast road plunges through a leafy valley owned by the Forestry Commission. Here, a track only suitable for walkers passes Parc Le Breos, a prehistoric burial chamber covered by a 70ft long mound of stones. The chamber once held the 6000-year-old remains of up to 40 people. Neighbouring Cathole Cave is even older dating back to the Ice Age - mammoth and woolly rhino remains have been discovered deep in the cave. Close by is the Gower Heritage Centre, a popular craft and countryside complex sited at a 12 th century water-powered cornmill.
Three fang-like craggy rocks, through which the sea has cut a natural arch, give Threecliff Bay its name. Cliffs and fortresses eroded by time overlook this enchanting bay and beach, where the remains of a castle mound on the western side of the bay is balanced by the ruins of 13 th century Pennard Castle to the east. Adjoining Threecliff Bay is Oxwich, one of the prettiest Gower villages, huddled along one long lane at the western end of a superb three-mile stretch of sand. Once a haven for smugglers, present-day Oxwich Bay is a marvellous holiday area offering safe bathing from a clean beach, wind-surfing and water-skiing. The village boasts a ruined manor house, built in 1541, known as Oxwich Castle and the 12 th century Church of St Iltyd, situated on a half-hidden rocky ledge above the sea. There are also a number of picturesque stone cottages built in traditional Gower style, including a cottage once owned by John Wesley. Oxwich Nature Reserve lies nearby, as do many footpaths providing visitors with spectacular views across the Gower.
Lying at the heart of the Gower is the small remote village of Llanrhidian, which looks northward toward the wilderness of tidal salt marsh and sandbanks that bedeck the northerly coastline of the peninsula. This is the least populated part where sheep and wild ponies graze on manna-grass (tamarisk), sea-lavender and marsh mallow, where waders and wildfowl congregate in large numbers and the few people spotted moving through this landscape are probably collecting cockles. In fact, the cockle women of Pen-clawdd still traipse upto 7 miles a day across the mudflats to collect cockles and seaweed for laverbread - old traditions not yet died out. The northern-fringed saltmarsh extends for 8 miles round to Carmarthen Bay and displays a desolate beauty in marked contrast to the golden sands of South Gower. The Small World Pony Centre, at nearby Llwyn-y-Bwch Farm, breeds miniature ponies and is situated very close to Weobly Castle, now an evocative ruin. This late 13 th century castle was partly destroyed by Owain Glyndwr in a rebellion of 1400, and later rebuilt as a manor house towards the latter part of the 15 th century. It remains a fine illustration of the era when comfort was becoming as important as security. Towers and walls enclose the courtyard off of which there runs a honeycomb of rooms; set up within the castle is a very fine exhibition based on the Gower Peninsula.
On the south-west stretches of the peninsula nestles Port-Eynon, an enchanting village with a sandy bay very similar to that at Oxwich, where the beach shelves outward backed by undulating dunes. Culver Hole, an enormous cave of unknown origin, is set in the cliffs and is the principal attraction. The Great House located behind Horton's Bay and now a restaurant, was once the home of the notorious 17 th century pirate and wrecker John Lucas, and is supposedly the oldest building on the Gower.
Arguably the finest beach on the peninsula is at Rhossili, where the Gower sits facing the Atlantic rollers and beyond toward the mists of Ireland. Rhossili village is a delightful scene with its pretty colour washed cottages perched high above a sandy beach - its church has a memorial to Edgar Evans who died on Scott's tragic 1912 expedition to the South Pole. The 4-mile crescent of sand provides perfect Atlantic surf and at a distance out to sea the blackened remnants of the Helvetia , which ran aground in 1887, may be viewed jutting from the foaming waters. At the northern end of Rhossili Bay, and separating it from the secluded Whiteford Sands, is the small island of Burry Holms. This stark island, with its Iron Age fort and ruined 12 th century church dedicated to the 6 th cent hermit St Cennydd, can be reached on foot two hours each side of low water. At the southern tip of Rhossili Bay lies the most westerly part of the Gower Peninsula, the spectacular promontory of Worms Head. Windy Worms Head, like Burry Holms, may be reached by foot across a rugged causeway only at low tide. At its seaward end are the sea-eroded arches of Devil's Bridge and Blow Hole through which waves roar and howl in dramatic fashion.
Llangennith is a delightfully quiet rural village overlooking Rhossili Down, where natural springs bubble-up from the village green surrounded by gleaming whitewashed cottages. Here stands the largest church on the peninsula, built in the 12 th century on the site of an earlier priory. The priory was founded by the Cornish hermit-saint St Cenydd in the 6 th cent, but suffered at the hands of Viking raiders who sacked the holy site in AD986. The church lych-gate has carved scenes of the saint's life, while the church tower has a saddleback roof, an excellent example of fortified architecture once typical of the area. The grave located within the church is thought to be that of St Cenydd. Standing opposite this splendid Norman church is the King's Head Pub, ownership of which can be traced back to 1790. Long before this date the building was a farm and brewery originating from the time of St Cenydd's early settlement. Llanmadoc Hill stands between Llangennith and Whiteford Sands, and at 609ft above sealevel affords superb views across the Gower. Located on its lower slopes are The Bulwark, an Iron Age hillfort, and a number of scattered cairns marking Bronze Age burial sites. Nearby Paviland Caves are considered to be the oldest occupied site yet excavated in Europe, dating back some 100 000 years, while Arthur's Stone at Reynoldston contains more Neolithic burial chambers.