Gower Peninsula
Situated beyond the Mumbles is the rocky secluded fist of the Gower peninsula. In 1956 it was deservedly designated Britain's first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and as such has remained a favourite destination for visitors to South Wales over the years. The Gower peninsula offers three National Nature Reserves and 21 sites of Special Scientific Interest. There are also several unspoilt sandy beaches and sheltered bays adorning its southern and western coastline.
The Gower peninsula's sheltered Mediterranean-like switchback shoreline plunges and soars out of pine-clad limestone bays that are dotted with occasional palm trees. Around the headland from the Mumbles is Langland Bay which is popular with surfers but also a safe family beach which many rock-pools. Nearby is Caswell Bay, a calm sweep of azure blue that nestles beneath a high shrubby headland. From here, travelling west, a scenic footpath drops down to the tiny old smugglers' lair of Brandy Cove which is inaccessible by car.
At Parkmill, the coast road plunges through a leafy valley. Here, a track only suitable for walkers passes Parc Le Breos, a prehistoric burial chamber covered by a 70ft long mound of stones. The chamber once held the 6000-year-old remains of up to 40 people. Nearby is Cathole Cave which is even older dating back to the Ice Age. Mammoth and woolly rhino remains have been discovered deep in the cave. Close by is the Gower Heritage Centre, a popular craft and countryside complex sited at a 12th century water-powered cornmill.
Three fang-like craggy rocks, through which the sea has cut a natural arch, give Threecliff Bay its name. Cliffs and fortresses eroded by time overlook this enchanting bay and beach, where the remains of a castle mound on the western side of the bay is balanced by the ruins of 13th century Pennard Castle to the east. Adjoining Threecliff Bay is Oxwich, one of the prettiest Gower villages. It is huddled along one long lane at the western end of a superb three-mile stretch of sand. Once a haven for smugglers, present-day Oxwich Bay is a marvellous vacation area offering safe bathing from a clean beach, wind-surfing and water-skiing. The village boasts a ruined manor house, built in 1541, known as Oxwich Castle and the 12th century Church of St Iltyd, situated on a half-hidden rocky ledge above the sea. There are also a number of picturesque stone cottages built in traditional Gower style, including a cottage once owned by John Wesley. Oxwich Nature Reserve lies nearby, as do many footpaths providing visitors with spectacular views across the Gower.
Lying at the heart of the Gower is the small remote village of Llanrhidian, which looks northward toward the wilderness of tidal salt marsh and sandbanks that bedeck the northerly coastline of the peninsula. This is the least populated part on whihc can be found sheep and wild ponies that graze on manna-grass, sea-lavender and marsh mallow, where waders and wildfowl congregate in large numbers and the few people spotted moving through this landscape are probably collecting cockles, a very old tradition. The northern-fringed saltmarsh extends for 8 miles round to Carmarthen Bay and displays a desolate beauty in marked contrast to the golden sands of South Gower. The Small World Pony Centre, at nearby Llwyn-y-Bwch Farm, breeds miniature ponies and is situated very close to Weobly Castle, now partly a ruin. This late 13th century castle was partly destroyed by Owain Glyndwr in a rebellion of 1400, and later rebuilt as a manor house towards the latter part of the 15th century. It remains a fine illustration of the era when comfort was becoming as important as security. Towers and walls enclose the courtyard off of which there runs a honeycomb of rooms. There is fine exhibition based on the Gower Peninsula in the Castle.
On the south-west stretches of the peninsula nestles Port-Eynon, an enchanting village with a sandy bay very similar to that at Oxwich, where the beach shelves outward backed by undulating dunes. Culver Hole, whose origins are unclear, is set in the cliffs and is a popular attraction. The Great House located behind Horton's Bay and now a restaurant, was once the home of the notorious 17th century pirate and wrecker John Lucas, and is supposedly the oldest building on the Gower peninsula.
Arguably the finest beach on the peninsula is at Rhossili, where the Gower sits facing the Atlantic. Rhossili village is a delightful scene with its pretty colour washed cottages perched high above a sandy beach. There is a memorial in its church to Edgar Evans who died on Scott's tragic 1912 expedition to the South Pole. The 4-mile crescent of sand provides perfect Atlantic surf and at a distance out to sea the blackened remnants of the Helvetia, which ran aground in 1887, may be viewed jutting from the foaming waters. At the northern end of Rhossili Bay, and separating it from the secluded Whiteford Sands, is the small island of Burry Holms. This stark island has an Iron Age fort and the ruins of a 12th century church that is dedicated to the 6th century hermit St Cennydd. The island can be reached on foot two hours each side of low water. At the southern tip of Rhossili Bay lies the most westerly part of the Gower Peninsula, the spectacular promontory of Worms Head. It is extremely windy and like like Burry Holms, may be reached by foot across a rugged causeway only at low tide. At its seaward end Devil's Bridge and Blow Hole, arches eroded by the sea.
Overlooking Rhossili Down is the delightful village of Llangennith, where natural springs bubble-up from the village green that is surrounded by whitewashed cottages. Here stands the largest church on the peninsula, built in the 12th century on the site of an earlier priory. The priory was founded by the Cornish hermit-saint St Cenydd in the 6th century, but was sacked by Viking raiders in AD986. The church lych-gate has carved scenes of the saint's life, while the church tower has a saddleback roof, an excellent example of fortified architecture once typical of the area. The grave located within the church is thought to be that of St Cenydd. Standing opposite this splendid Norman church is the King's Head Pub, ownership of which can be traced back to 1790. Long before this date the building was a farm and brewery originating from the time of St Cenydd's early settlement. Llanmadoc Hill stands between Llangennith and Whiteford Sands, and at 609ft above sealevel affords superb views across the Gower. Located on its lower slopes are The Bulwark, an Iron Age hillfort, and a number of scattered cairns marking Bronze Age burial sites. Nearby Paviland Caves are considered to be the oldest occupied site yet excavated in Europe, dating back some 100 000 years, while Arthur's Stone at Reynoldston contains more Neolithic burial chambers.
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