Isle of Islay - Inner Hebrides
 Castles |
Islay is the most southerly of the islands of the Inner Hebrides, lying off the west coast of Kintyre and separated from its smaller but much wilder and hillier neighbour, the isle of Jura, by the narrow Sound of Islay. The Antrim coast of Ireland is as close to Islay as is the mainland of Scotland , and the island enjoys such a mild climate that it is greener throughout the winter months than most other parts of Britain.
Islay occupies a special place in the history of the Western Isles. It's known in Gaelic as ‘Queen of the Hebrides', and for nearly four centuries stood at the heart of the kingdom of the MacDonalds, Lords of the Isles, when they held sway over all of the Western Isles and a large tract of the mainland coast, ruling from their loch-bound capital of Finlaggan.
Apart from its historical associations, Islay has other attractions to offer visitors, which include unrivalled birdlife, notable golf links, miles of unspoilt beaches and of course the distinctive malt whisky produced at seven different distilleries, some of which provide tours. The MacDonalds were virtually independent princes from the end of Norse rule in the 13th century until their land and titles were annexed by King James IV. The Lords of the Isles ruled their powerful medieval fiefdom from two islands located in land-locked Finlaggan. The larger, Eilean Mor , is accessible by a wooden walkway, and on its highest point are the roofless ruins of a 14th century chapel; the accompanying cemetery contains elaborately carved grave slabs dating from 1350 to 1500. The path over the island crosses its 13th century defences and the remains of a medieval great hall. Eilean Mor was covered with the houses, kilns and barns of a 16th century farming township. The smaller island, Eilean na Comhairle , was where the MacDonalds debated and passed judgement according to the laws made by Reginald, son of Somerled, the ancestor of all MacDonalds. The foundations of the Council Chamber are on those of a 13th century castle, which in turn stood on the site of an Iron Age fort. The two islands are connected by a stone causeway.
As the island's largest settlement and main ferry terminal, Port Ellen is Islay's front door and an appropriate place from which to discover the island. This very attractive village was established in 1821 and its parish boundaries encompass three of the best whisky distilleries. On a nearby promontory stands the ruined 16th century Dunyvaig Castle, an early MacDonald stronghold; its defences were severely damaged during a Royalist siege in the 17th century.
In the churchyard of Kildalton are two finely carved Celtic crosses. One, the 9th century High Cross of Kildalton, is as famous as St Martin's Cross in Iona. Intricately sculpted the cross is widely regarded as a masterpiece of early Christian carving. The smaller, unfinished 14th century cross stands close by in a railed enclosure. Only the walls and gable ends of Kildalton Church, 12th - 13th century, still stand; inside, among the medieval grave slabs, is one with a finely wrought effigy in relief of a knight in armour.
The village of Bowmore is noteworthy for the curious circular Parish Church of Kilarrow, built in 1767 by Islay laird Daniel Campbell. Open daily, it is one of only two round churches in Scotland, and was designed in such a fashion to alleviate the need for corners in which the devil might lurk and tempt the congregation. The 12th century ruined chapel of Cill Naoimh , standing in the village of Kilnave, has a grim history. Within this charming little chapel 30 MacLean clansmen were burnt to death in 1598 by Islay MacDonalds, the MacLeans having sought sanctuary in the chapel after a bloody battle with their adversaries on the shore of nearby Loch Gruinart. In the tiny cemetery, set in lawns of lush turf, carved grave slabs remain laid out around a 9 ft high Celtic cross, battered but still imposing, dating from around AD750.
The main settlement on the western peninsula of Islay is the picturesque village of Port Charlotte, also known as ‘Queen of the Rinns'. This picture postcard conservation village has converted an old Free Church Kirk into the award-winning ‘Museum of Islay Life'. One fascinating exhibition details the many shipwrecks that have occurred around the island coastline. Close by, is Bruichladdich Distillery, where visitors can sample the wares whilst resting beside the loch.