Jersey - Elizabeth Castle
 Castles |
Lying offshore, but within walking distance of St Helier harbour, is a rocky promontory, from which rise up the towers, turrets and high chimneys of picturesque Elizabeth Castle, a striking sight made even more so when seen floodlit at night. The castle can be reached on foot at low tide by way of a 1000 metre-long causeway running from the east end of the Esplanade, or, alternatively by means of an amphibious craft.
The site was originally known as St Helier's Islet after the arrival of St Helier in the 6th century, who then took up residence as a hermit. Beheaded by a raiding party of pirates, he reputedly retrieved his head and walked casually back to his hermitage. His deathplace became a site of pilgrimage and a monastic settlement was established here in 1155, instigated by William Fitz Hamen, a court official of Henry II (1154-89). Every year in July a pilgrimage parades along the breakwater to lay a wreath at the hermitage in honour of the saint.
By the 16th century the commercial port of St Helier was developing in importance and was in need of military protection from raiding parties. In 1594, work began on fortifying St Helier's Islet under the expert guidance of Paul Ivy, a military engineer. He was responsible for completing the Upper Ward, built between 1594 and 1601, and an extension in 1603 that established a cannon platform overlooking the harbour, now called Raleigh's Yard. Sir Walter Raleigh was involved in this first phase of construction and took up residence at the newly built Governor's House, as the first and one of the most distinguished of Jersey's governors. It was Raleigh who diplomatically named the fortress Fort Isabella Bellissima, in honour of Elizabeth I.
The second phase of construction, undertaken between 1626-36, was mainly carried out by de Carteret; known as the Lower Ward it incorporated the old Priory site and included barracks and other military buildings. The final major phase, completed in 1668, linked Fort Charles, built in 1646 on the southerly tip of the islet, to the main complex by construction of long curtain walls with cannon emplacements. This southern section became the Outer Ward containing the green and a fortified windmill.
Many authorities have acknowledged Elizabeth Castle as one of the finest fortified sites in Western Europe, but it didn't experience action until the English Civil War (1642-9) broke out. Charles II paid his respects when the castle became the last Royalist bastion in Britain, visiting the island twice in 1646 and again in 1649. On the latter occasion Charles was proclaimed king in St Helier by the Governor, Sir George Carteret, despite monarchy having already been abolished.
In 1651, Parliamentarians besieged Elizabeth Castle, bombarding the stronghold with mortar bombs. On Nov. 9th a bomb penetrated the chapel roof, hitting the ammunition dump in the crypt, which exploded catastrophically, destroying the old priory and several other buildings; most of the ammunition and two-thirds of the castle's provisions went up in flames forcing Carteret to surrender. Cromwell's forces held Jersey for the following nine years; a cross in the Barrack Square marks the approximate site of the old Priory church.
The 18th century was a period when the castle was ever on a war footing, vigilant against a French attack; ironic then, that when it came in 1781, the castle garrison was bypassed and subsequently marooned when a French army entered St Helier. Captain Mulcastor acted with typical British aplomb when asked to surrender, having just received a copy of a signed surrender by Moise Corbet, the kidnapped Governor of Jersey. Mulcaster, the senior officer in the castle, informed the invading forces that neither he nor any other in the beleaguered fortress could understand a word of French, and stood his ground until St Helier was relieved.
Visitors to Elizabeth Castle are free to roam at will through four centuries of British history, represented by these intriguing fortifications. In a belfry above the southerly entrance gate is the Castle Bell, installed in 1797, which used to ring half-an-hour before the causeway was covered. Cross over the drawbridge, which once moved on rollers, to enter the Lower Ward where the Royal Jersey Militia Museum is housed in the Old Gymnasium. Here too, are the old Barracks, wherein is a permanent artillery display including an audio-visual exhibition on firepower and defences. In the Upper Ward, the Governor's House contains historical tableaux of famous people connected with the castle - Raleigh, Paul Ivy, Charles II, Duke of York aka James II and Sir George & Lady Carteret all step-up to meet their visitors.
The Mount itself is now surmounted by a circular gun-control tower, built in the 1940's by the Nazis, who modernised the castle with guns, bunkers and battlements. However, it is this very tower that offers the best views across the Jersey coast.