Luton
 Castles |  Stately Homes |
Luton is the largest town in the county and despite its very modern appearance, having prospered through engineering, car manufacture and electronics in the later 20th century, it has a considerable history.
Successive prehistoric settlements were established beside the Icknield Way, an ancient route running across the north of town. In the early centuries AD a Romano-British village existed on the site of present day Luton before being consumed by fire, and from the Dark Ages early Saxon cemeteries indicate their presence in the area.
The region immediately around Luton was divided by the Danelaw boundary of AD886, and claimed as a Royal township by Edward the Elder (AD899-924) who began the construction of a church that was completed by Aethelston about 930. Successive medieval castles were built on the site in 1139 and again in 1216, but nothing now remains of them. The oldest recorded house in Luton is the remarkable Moat House, constructed between 1370 and 1400. During the 17th century religious nonconformity became very popular both in Luton and the county as a whole and 1698 witnessed Thomas Marsom erecting the first Baptist Hall in the town.
St Mary's Church represents the medieval glory of Luton, a jewel among the architectual mediocrity of the modern town. The present building was begun in the 13th century, enlarged in the 14th and finally completed in the 15th century. One of the largest parish churches in England, St Mary's impresses with its massive chequer-patterned stonework, built of black knapped flint and white limestone. Beneath it is the eye-catching marble font from about 1250. The delicate and sumptuous Wenlock screen, designed by Sir John Wenlock in 1461, covers the tomb of William Wenlock, who died in 1392, and Lady Alice Rotherham who died in 1490. The 'exploding' Magnificent Window of 1979, in the south aisle, complements the ancient body of the church beautifully.
Older buildings with a history can be found among modern Luton, the best of which include the town's oldest inn, the Red Lion Hotel in George Street, dating from 1540. By the Chapel Street roundabout is the former Union Chapel of 1836-44, one of the town's more elegant structures. Standing in Hibbert Street are a series of Queen Anne style almshouses, built in 1885 by the philanthropist Robert Hibbert. The Luton Museum and Art Gallery is housed in a small Victorian mansion built in 1875 and located within a park. It contains extensive collections of local archaeology, natural and local history, lace and hat making as well as its most treasured possession, a delightfully illustrated manuscript of the 15th and 16th centuries. The late 14th century thatched Moat House lies in Nunnery Lane, whilst Luton's only other thatched cottage is in Butterfield Green Road, dating from the 17th century.
Just south-east of the town is Luton Hoo, a mansion designed and built in 1767 by Robert Adam for the 3rd Earl of Bute. The 1500 acre park was laid out at the same time by 'Capability' Brown. After a series of fires the house was remodelled in 1903 for Sir Julius Wernher. Inside the house, apart from the grand oval staircase hall, conceived in the French Beaux Arts style, are the Wernher collection of paintings, tapestries, furniture, medieval ivories and English porcelain. The Russian collection includes many jewelled objects by Faberge and mementoes of the Russian Imperial Family.
Very near to Luton is Someries Castle, designed to impress only and not intended for military use. Constructed during the mid 15th century, only the gatehouse and adjoining chapel remain today. The remains, however, are fine examples of the earliest brick buildings in the county, very little stone being utilised. The novelist Joseph Conrad lived for a time in a nearby farmhouse.
For further information see http://www.locallife.co.uk/luton/tourist-information.asp