Peterborough
 Cathedrals |
The second city of Cambridgeshire has a long and interesting past that can be traced back to the Bronze Age, as revealed at the intriguing archaeological site at Flag Fen. Lying just east of Peterborough, these excavations comprise massive 3000 yr old timbers that were part of a major settlement preserved in peaty mud. In the 1st century AD the Romans built the town of Durobrivae and a 27 acre fortress on the site, now unfortunately buried beneath Thorpe Wood golf course. There is additional evidence for believing that the Romans developed local pottery into a serious industry.
Peterborough has been a site of Christian worship since the 7th century when a monastery dedicated to St Peter was founded here in AD 656. This Saxon church was, however, sacked and destroyed by Danish raiders in 870. Approximately 100 yrs later a replacement was constructed by the Bishop of Winchester, which, alas, lasted but a short time before being consumed by fire in 1117. The core of the present cathedral was built on the same site as an abbey church between 1118-43.
The city's crowning glory is without a doubt its superb Norman cathedral rising from the ashes of its predecessor, and largely completed within the century. The nave, built between 1194-7, contains eleven bays, massive Norman piers, and was constructed from the local cream-coloured Barnack stone. Above ground level the painted wooden ceiling, dating from 1220, is an exquisite example of medieval art, one of the most important in Europe. The oldest part of the cathedral is the Norman arm lying to the south of the central tower; the lowest of the three tiers of windows contain some 19th century stained glass by the renowned designer William Morris. Fronting Cathedral Square is the Great Gate, originally Norman with later additions. The chancel of the 14th century Chapel of St Thomas of Canterbury stands to the left of the Gate - its east window incorporates beautiful tracery.
Henry VIII (1509-47) gave the church the status of cathedral and his first wife, Catherine of Aragon, is buried in the north aisle of the presbytery under a slab of black Irish marble. The king's determination to divorce her in favour of Anne Boleyn precipitated the English Reformation. The Royal marriage was finally declared void in 1533, but much to Henry's annoyance, Catherine insisted till her death in 1536 that she remained his lawful wife.
Mary, Queen of Scots (1553-8) was also interred in Peterborough Cathedral, in the south aisle, after her execution at Fotheringay Castle; her corpse was later transferred, by her son, James I, to Westminster Abbey where she now lies in peace. An epitaph for Robert 'Old' Scarlett, the 16th century gravedigger who buried both Catherine of Aragon and Mary, Queen of Scots, records that in his day he interred as many people as the total population of Peterborough.
Other historic attractions in the city include the impressive old Butter Cross, known as the Guildhall, dating from 1671. Next to the Cross is Peterborough's ancient parish church of St John the Baptist, constructed in 1402-7 with stone 'rescued' from the nave of the Chapel of St Thomas of Canterbury. Longthorpe Tower is a three-storey building from about 1300, and contains the best-surviving examples of English medieval wall-paintings. The 16th century Customs House is surmounted by a light, which guided vessels to a wharf on the River Nene. The Museum and Art Gallery cover all aspects of Peterborough's history from the Jurassic period to Victorian times, and includes carved bone work and straw marquetry made by prisoners during the Napoleonic Wars of the early 19th century.
There are twin attractions for railway enthusiasts in the shape of Railworld, a hands-on exhibition dealing with modern rail travel, and the wonderful Nene Valley Railway, which operates a 15 mile steam-hauled rail journey between Peterborough and its headquarters and museum at Wansford.