Strangford Lough
 Abbeys |  Castles |  Stately Homes |
Strangford, a lovely little village and port on the Down coast, is the destination of the car ferry from the mainland where it crosses the narrow sea channel. The earlier name of this picturesque inlet was Lough Cuan (cuan being Irish for haven or harbour), but it was renamed Strangford in the Dark Ages by Viking settlers because of the fiercesome current that runs in the narrows - it is a Norse word meaning ‘violent fjord'. There are no fewer than five castles within a few miles of the tiny village, all well preserved and beautifully sited. Strangford Castle itself dates from the late 16 th century and still remains an imposing sight. Planted on the Downpatrick Road is the rather odd 18 th century manor house called Castle Ward, now National Trust property.
The first Lord Bangor and his wife, who were jointly responsible for its construction, eventually divorced and left the castle to its fate, but not without each of them first having left their individual imprint on the structure. The front aspect of Castle Ward is built in the Classical style (the husband's taste), while the rear of the building, incongruously, is Gothic in appearance (wife's taste); this confrontation of styles is further reflected in the interior décor. For three weeks every year in June opera enlivens the house and grounds - the latter are extensive and include a Palladian temple, ornamental lake and landscaped gardens. In addition, there is a 16 th century tower house, called Old Castle Ward, tucked away in a corner of the grounds. An oddity perhaps, but Castle Ward is undoubtedly the showplace of Strangford Lough.
The 15 th century Audley's Castle is situated a little way off from Castle Ward on the Lough shore, providing superb views across the sparkling waters. Further south, Kilclief Castle is one of Ireland's earliest tower houses, a well-preserved 15 th century structure that was originally home to John Cely, Bishop of Down, until he was defrocked and thrown-out of the clergy for living in sin with a married woman. The fifth castle standing near the Lough is at Walshestown and is slightly less imposing than its neighbours.
Ardglass, situated on the Lecal Peninsula to the south of Strangford, is tucked into the shore side of an attractive natural inlet, with its domestic buildings rising steeply from the harbour; ardglass in Irish means ‘the green height'. The townhouses are liberally interspersed with fortified mansions, towers and turrets - seven in all. Their construction date from a vigorous English revival of the area in the 16 th century, when a trading company first arrived to found a colony here. The best preserved example of these fortifications, and the only one open to visitors is Jordan's Castle, the most elegant and highly developed of all the Down tower houses. It has recently been renovated and, inside, the stark whitewashed walls dramatically set-off the massive ceiling beams; regular exhibitions detailing local history are available.
On the Peninsula of Ards the road running south from Bangor passes close to the windmill at Ballycopeland, where seals frequently bob against the prawn boats as the catch is landed. At the very end of the peninsula the ancient Irish marked their graves with a ring of standing stones and built a fort into the wind on Tara Hill. The reefs off this coast have a vicious reputation and have claimed many ships in the past; only Donaghadee offered a safe haven. Toward the Lough side of the peninsula many curious small islands can be seen - these are the tips of submerged drumlins, small rounded hills. Strangford Lough is tidal and twice a day hundreds of millions of tons of water pour through the narrow entrance at Portaferry. The Lough is a wonderful bird sanctuary and wild life reserve, and specimens of its rich marine life are displayed at the Portaferry marina.
Standing in isolated grandeur at the northern end of Strangford Lough is the house and gardens of Mount Stewart, once the aristocratic family home of the Marquises of Londonderry; amongst this line of nobles was the detested Lord Castlereagh (1769-1822). Despite being an exemplary landlord, generous philanthropist, distinguished diplomat and politician, he is eternally despised in Irish history for his contribution to the Act of Union in 1800. It was an agreement that destroyed all traces of Irish autonomy and had disastrous consequences for his native country. Mount Stewart is a wonderfully grand 18 th century house with a few later additions, and its extensive estate encompasses delightful gardens, complete with dodos and dinosaurs on the terraces. In 1780 The Temple of the Winds was constructed in the grounds, replicating the original in Athens.
Strangford was a most desirable location many centuries before the Anglo-Irish built their great houses. Of the four Cistercian monasteries founded in medieval County Down, only Inch Abbey (see Downpatrick) and Grey Abbey have substantial remains. The roofless ruins of Grey Abbey were founded in 1190 by Affreca, a princess of the Isle of Man and wife to John de Courcy, conqueror of Ulster. The church, despite now having no aisle, still retains much handsome stonework, and effigies of a 13 th century noblewoman and 14 th century knight.