Wells
 Cathedrals |
Wells, England's smallest cathedral city, and Somerset's only cathedral city, retains a medieval spirit, epitomised by its glorious 13 th century cathedral, one of the finest sights in Britain. The Cathedral of St Andrew and the moated Bishop's Palace lie at the heart of the medieval city, together creating a harmonious whole - the history of Wells is essentially their history and ecclesiastical in context.
King Ine of the West Saxons built a church at the place where numerous springs or wells rose from below the Mendip Hills, from this the city derived its name. For 200 years Wells remained a peaceful Saxon bishopric until in 1088 a Norman bishop, John of Tours, preferring the attractions of Bath, destroyed the church and evicted its canons. For a period in the 12 th century Glastonbury found favour and the title Bishop of Bath and Glastonbury came into usage, until the Pope decreed in favour of Bath and Wells. The title Bishop of Bath and Wells has been retained for some 800 years despite the dissolution of Bath Abbey in 1539.
Wells Cathedral dates from the late 12 th century, when work began on construction of the choir in about 1180; it continued for another three centuries before concluding in 1508, a most striking example of earliest English Gothic architecture. The imposing west front of the cathedral, built around 1230, was constructed as a backing to complement the 365 medieval statues of kings, knights, angels and saints, many of them life-size, that embellish the frontage; a number of these fine statues were destroyed by over-zealous Puritans in the 17 th century. Other points to note externally are the two unusual flat-topped towers, and the remarkable flying buttress-shafts deflecting the downward stresses away from the cathedral's bulk.
Inside are many features of interest not least the 14 th century stained glass, seen to best effect in the great east window above the High Altar, probably one of the finest of its kind in Britain. The swirl of white arches, inverted one upon another, beneath the tower crossing, is most arresting and appears quite modern to the eye despite having been erected between 1315-22. Three of these ‘scissor' arches were inserted north, west and south to correct a serious structural subsidence that threatened the tower - a brilliantly original and aesthetically pleasing solution. The exquisite Lady Chapel and the humorous carved pillar-capitals in the south transept also catch the eye. In the north transept is the famous astronomical clock with its two dials, 6ft across, one denoting minutes the other hours of the day. Thought to be the second-oldest working clock in the world and built between 1386-92, it also displays the position of the sun, dates of the lunar month and phases of the moon. At each quarter-hour a figure strikes the bell and a mock tournament of knights takes place - compare a similar clock in Salisbury Cathedral, claimed to be the oldest. Entry to the Chapter House is by way of a graceful flight of stone steps, both curving to the right and rising straight ahead. The Octagonal Chapter House has the most delicate fan vaulting dating from 1306 - the 32 ribs springing from the central column create a beautiful palm-tree effect. When sunlight fills the vaulting and falls upon the wide breadth of steps a memorable hymn in stone is conjured up in full glory.
South of the cathedral lies the fortified, moat-ringed Bishop's Palace, one of the oldest inhabited houses in England. The Palace is approached from either the Cathedral Cloisters or through the Bishop's Eye, a medieval gatehouse that straddles the path leading from the town's market place. Entry to the palace grounds is over a drawbridge, drawn across the still-filled moat and through the Palace Gatehouse. Fortified in the 14 th century, the palace has developed around the medieval residence built by Bishop Jocelin in the early 13 th century, its outer walls dating back to 1206. The First Floor Hall, one of the oldest parts, has a vaulted entry hall and undercroft (ground floor cellar) supporting a gallery, hall and solar (upper chamber). These state rooms are decorated mainly in Victorian ‘Italian Gothic' style, reached via the Jacobean staircase. The north wing, built by Bishop Beckynton in the early 15 th century, is now the private residence of the Bishop of Bath and Wells. Toward the end of the 13 th century Bishop Burnell added the Great Hall and the Bishop's Chapel; the latter has been in daily use throughout the centuries as a house of prayer. The Great Hall fell into disrepair during the 16 th century when lead and timbers from the roof were removed. The remains of the hall were preserved and the garden landscaped by Bishop Law in the early 19 th century, at which stage it took on its present day appearance. Fine views may be had from the Rampart Walk, including those of the varied wildfowl in the moat. Near the bridge, hanging low over the water just below a window, is the bell that the famous mute swans have been trained to ring when they need to be fed.
The wells or springs from which the city derives its name rise in the palace grounds, and four of these springs can be seen bubbling up through the silt at the base of the tranquil pool famous for its reflection of the cathedral. It was Bishop Beckynton, who in the 15 th century controlled the flow of water and channelled it as a source of water and power for the palace, the city and the once busy city mills. These well springs still supply the moat and its flow is regulated by a series of sluices.
Among other interesting features of the city are the Bishop's Barn, dating from the 15 th century, and in a yard behind the 16 th century Crown Hotel it is said that the persecuted Quaker, William Penn 1644-1718, preached to a vast crowd before being arrested. This same William Penn later founded Pennsylvania in the United States. Opposite the north porch of the cathedral is the Chain Gate leading to Vicar's Close; built in the 14 th century for the Vicar's Choir it is one of the oldest complete medieval streets in Europe. Penniless Porch leads from the bustling market place to the tranquillity of the cathedral close, and was frequented by beggars who would gather to accost visitors to the cathedral. The Cathedral Library, built about 1425, houses important artefacts belonging to the so-called Witch of Wookey Hole, an impressive cave complex to the north-east of Wells. St Cuthbert's Church is the largest parish church in Somerset, boasting a magnificent Perpendicular tower and a colourful 16 th century ceiling.