Worcester
Straddling the gently curving River Severn, Worcester attractively mingles the role of bustling modern county capital with that of medieval Cathedral City. The massive bulk of Worcester Cathedral, one of the great Minsters of England, dominates the skyline from every viewpoint of the city that it has watched over for more than 800 years. Standing at the heart of England, Worcester is renowned for its handsome porcelain, its aromatic Worcester sauce, glove-making, a local craft since the 13th century, the internationally famous Worcester County Cricket Ground and the wealth of ancient buildings, crowned by its magnificent cathedral.
The historic city is set amid rich farmland characterised by red earth meadows, apple and cherry orchards, hopfields, stone farms and black-and-white timbered houses; agriculture has always played a significant role in its economy. In medieval times, defences running parallel to City Walls Road marked the eastern boundary of Worcester. These have been much excavated and Worcester's oldest buildings lie between them and the river to the west.
The oldest church is St Helen's in Fish Street, originally constructed in AD80 it has been rebuilt many times, most recently in 1880, and is now employed as a repository for ecclesiastical and secular records. The Methodist Church of St Andrews, opened in 1968, stands over a modern shopping arcade high above Pump Street. All that remains of the 15th century St Andrew's Church is a tower and a spire that soars some 250ft above the riverside gardens - the colloquial name for the spire is Glover's Needle.
Friar Street, and its continuation New Street, contains many lovely old timber buildings including several 15 th and 16 th century houses sensitively restored. Among the best is Nash House, a four storey, half-timbered Elizabethan building. Another is Greyfriars, a timbered Franciscan structure of 1480, built as a hostelry for travellers and one of the few monastic buildings to survive the Dissolution of 1536-9. Charmingly restored, Greyfriars may be visited as a museum with early fireplaces, panelling and period furniture in evidence; the house is approached through an archway with a pretty walled garden to the rear. Located in the same street is Tudor House, a 500-year old timber-framed structure now utilised as a folk museum, depicting aspects of domestic and social life in the city from Elizabethan times onward. It incorporates a Stuart room and a kitchen with a cast-iron cooking range. New Street offers us King Charles' House, a half-timbered structure built in 1577 and partly destroyed by fire in the 18 th century with the restored remnant now employed as a restaurant. Charles II hid in the house after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651, which was fought outside the city walls, and fled through the back door as Parliamentarian troops entered at the front.
Worcester's Guildhall, situated in the High Street, is a handsome, imposing building and a rare example of early Georgian architecture; both Charles I and II are commemorated by statues placed on its façade. The Guildhall was built in 1721-3 to the design of Thomas White, a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren, and boasts one of the most beautifully decorated Queen Anne rooms found anywhere in the country. A collection of armour is also included with a display of discarded pieces left after the Battle of Worcester. The city's deep Royalist leanings throughout the Civil War of 1642-9 are emphasised by a depiction of Oliver Cromwell's head nailed by the ears above the doorway of the Guildhall. Civil War relics are also on display at the City Museum & Art Gallery in Foregate Street, a near neighbour of the 19 th century Shire Hall. One section of the museum is devoted to the Worcestershire Regiment raised in 1694 and to the Yeoman Cavalry formed in 1794.
The Commandery, lying a little outside the old city walls in Sidbury, marks one of the original gateways to Worcester. Founded in 1085 as the Hospital of St Wulstan, the Commandery was rebuilt in the 15 th century, includes a great hall with mural paintings and became the country home of the Wylde family. Charles II made it his headquarters during the Battle of Worcester, and after the Royalist defeat their army commander the Duke of Hamilton, died of his wounds in the Commandery. The building itself dates mainly from 1500, is of Tudor construction and at one time housed monks who administered medicine to the sick and poor. It is now a museum displaying a detailed account of events surrounding Charles' defeat in 1651.
Along the main Worcester to Evesham road, one mile from Worcester town centre, lies the impressive Mount Pleasant Inn. Formerly an 18 th century coaching inn the toll gates lie a short way down the road. To avoid paying the toll the coach and horses were left at the inn and the passengers would walk the short distance to town. Entering the inn today visitors find themselves stepping back in time with the 18 th century décor, antique porcelain and old fashioned photographs on display.
Worcester's porcelain industry began in 1751 when Dr John Wall, together with a group of local businessmen, began producing successful lines of Chinese blue-printed ware and later, richly ornamental ware. The Royal Worcester Porcelain Company, standing on the outskirts of town, is Britain's oldest continuous producer of porcelain and is world famous for its exquisite Fine Bone China. The Dyson Perries Museum has one of the world's finest collections of Worcester porcelain and bone china, including the celebrated Wigornia cream jug made in 1751. The museum and factory provide tours.
Worcester is the home of Britain's oldest surviving newspaper, Berrow's Worcester Journal, founded in 1690. The celebrated Worcestershire based Lea and Perrins sauce factory in Midland Road, was founded in 1825 by two local men. The famous Worcester County Cricket Ground has one of the most delightful settings in the country, and visiting sides traditionally play their first county match here with the majesty of the cathedral as a backdrop.
The world renowned composer Sir Edward Elgar was born in 1857 at Lower Broadheath, 4-miles north-west of Worcester, in the cottage that is now a museum housing proofs of his musical scores and a variety of personal mementoes. The county holds many festivals in his honour and it is also possible to follow the Elgar Trail around Worcestershire. This trail visits those tranquil spots where the great man sought inspiration, the houses where he lived and buildings that shaped his musical life. Sixty-three individual signposts direct visitors around the 45-mile trail, which the composer himself once enjoyed cycling.