Durham
 Castles |  Cathedrals |
The heart of Durham is a lofty sandstone outcrop, almost made an island by a tight-necked loop of the meandering River Wear. It has the relaxed but fascinating atmosphere of a history-steeped market town. Seen from the riverside footpath, with its elegant bridges, picturesque old mill and numerous grassy picnic places, the city centre is almost completely hidden by trees.
Nearly a 1000 years ago, a party of monks were seeking a resting-place for the remains of St Cuthbert, one of the founders of Christianity in northern England. They required a site that would be safe from the raiding Vikings, who had driven them from their original home on the holy island of Lindisfarne. They chose a rocky outcrop above the River Wear, and there, in 995, they built a simple wooden church to shelter their saint's coffin and treasures. A stone church soon followed, to be replaced by the present cathedral in 1017. It soon became a place of pilgrimage, and additions and alterations were made by later generations - an early pilgrim was King Canute, who granted further tracts of land and privileges to the community. The reputation of the cathedral was further enhanced in 1022, when the remains of the Venerable Bede, the father of English history, were also laid to rest here. Despite the later changes, the building's character has remained essentially and indomitably Norman, and the vision of these mighty grey towers rising up from amid the surrounding trees, visible for miles around in all directions, is an awe inspiring sight.
Inside the cathedral, massive columns, carved with geometric patterns typical of Norman craftsmanship, support the delicately carved, stone-ribbed vaulting. One of the most unusual internal features is an extravagantly decorated clock, with four faces that give information about the moon and stars, as well as telling the time. There are also 8th cent illuminated manuscripts, and a grotesque 12th century brass doorknocker, used by criminals seeking sanctuary. Entries in the Sanctuary Book reveal that 331 fugitives, including 283 murderers, were admitted between 1464 and 1525. During the English Civil War, Puritans used the cathedral as a prison for 4000 Scots captured at the Battle of Dunbar.
Like the cathedral, Durham Castle also stands on high ground, and is unique among England's northern strongholds in that it never fell to the Scots. Constructed in the early 11th century, the castle remained the palace of bishops from 1072 until 1837, at which date it was handed over to the newly founded University as its first college, and the castle now functions as a student residence. Durham University, founded in 1832, is the oldest in England after Oxford and Cambridge, and is centred on the cathedral/castle complex. Many rooms in the castle are still used for their original purposes. Fox's Kitchen dates from the 15th century, although some parts may be 300 years older, and it is still used to cook more than 300 meals every day. The Norman chapel, its stones carved with elaborate scenes and individual figures, is the castle's oldest part, and has recently been re-opened for religious use.
The Church of St Mary le Bow, in the North Bailey, was rebuilt in 1685, after its towers fell and destroyed the nave. The original tower formed part of the city's fortifications. St Mary the Less, in the South Bailey, dates from the 12th century, but was completely rebuilt in 1847. Beyond the ancient city of the peninsula, are other places of interest. Crook Hall is a 14th century medieval manor house, with a great hall and minstrel gallery. The Church of St Giles is largely 13th century, but has a late 12th century chancel, and Keiper Hospital still retains its marvellous 14th century medieval gatehouse. The Oriental Museum houses a vast collection of Chinese ceramics, art and archaeology. The Durham Light Infantry Regiment traces its history back to 1758, and its museum displays many battle relics and regalia. In addition, there are a number of attractively fronted Georgian buildings in the town.
Although Durham was a military base from Norman times until the 17th century, the city has a very peaceful history. It was the venue for several Anglo-Scottish peace conferences, the most notable bringing King Stephen of England and David I of Scotland together in 1139. The one major battle in the area was fought in 1346. Philip VI of France engaged in a losing war against Edward III, encouraging his Scottish allies to invade England. They were defeated at Neville's Cross, now in the city's western suburbs, by an army raised by Queen Philippa, Edward's wife. Her commanders included Lord Ralph Neville of Raby Castle who, on his death in 1367, became the first layman to be buried in the cathedral; he is commemorated by the magnificent Neville Screen that stands behind the main altar. These religious links with one of England's most famous warrior-families underline the dual role played by the city for much of its long and illustrious life.