Falmouth
 Castles |
As a port Falmouth stands on a magnificent site at the entrance to the Carrick Roads, a spectacular deep-water anchorage formed by the convergence of seven river estuaries. Situated at the west mouth of the estuary, Falmouth is the largest town in Cornwall sprawling inelegantly over its wonderful site, and is best viewed from the water itself.
In the 1540's Henry VIII built a pair of fortresses on either side of the estuary to protect the strategically important natural harbour of Carrick Roads, this proved vital to the rise of Falmouth as a port. The Pope's disapproval of Henry's marital and religious extravagance was common knowledge, and a French Catholic invasion was feared.
Pendennis Castle, on the western side of the estuary, is superbly sited on a 200ft promontory overlooking the entrance to Carrick Roads. Entered across a drawbridge the castle is immaculately preserved, an outstanding example of military architecture designed to maximise the angles of fire; one of the octagonal gun rooms has been set up as it would have looked with the guns manned. The castle's low circular keep has immensely thick walls and stands within a 16 sided enclosure; the outer curtain wall is an Elizabethan addition in response to a threatened second Spanish Armada. Pendennis Castle was the last Royalist stronghold in England to surrender to Cromwell in the Civil War (1642-49), only succumbing to the Parliamentarians after a grim 5 month long siege. The castle remained in use as a coastal defence station until the end of the Second World War, and is now under the ownership of English Heritage. Pendennis Point offers a quite fantastic panoramic view over Carrick Roads.
Falmouth was an obscure place until Sir Walter Raleigh, seeing its natural strategic advantages, recommended it for development as a port; his early vision was taken up by Raleigh's friend Sir Peter Killigrew, who laid the foundation for modern Falmouth. A monument to the family erected in 1737 can be seen in Grove Place, a short distance from the remains of their once palatial Tudor mansion, Arwenack House. The Killigrews were Royalists in the Civil War, and after the Restoration of the Monarchy in 1660, Charles II rewarded the family by granting a charter to create a port below Penryn and Truro.
Although a settlement has existed here for many hundreds of years, it wasn't until the 17th century that the port was properly developed. In 1698 the first Royal Mail Packet Station in England was established at Falmouth; this became the communications centre of the British Empire. Small, fast heavily armed sloops darted across the oceans carrying post, royal messages and bullion to America, Africa, India and the Mediterranean ports. The packet service brought great prosperity to Falmouth and by 1827 thirty nine ships from all quarters of the world brought mail here. A few decades later, however, the introduction of steam-powered vessels heralded a decline in Falmouth's fortunes; by the 1850's trade had moved to Southampton and Liverpool. Falmouth's fortunes were to revive in 1863 with the arrival of the railway - holidaymakers soon followed and a new prosperity dawned.
Falmouth's former Royalist sympathies are demonstrated in the parish Church of King Charles the Martyr (Charles I) built in 1662; it retains its curious rectangular tower and arcades with Ionic plaster capitals. Elsewhere in the town there are some handsome early 19th century buildings, including the Falmouth Arts Centre in Church Street, which began life as a Quaker institute ‘to promote the useful arts'. Near the Custom House Quay, with its fine colonnaded façade is a curious red brick chimney, where for years smuggled tobacco was burned when seized as contraband by excisemen - it is referred to as the ‘King's Pipe'. The steam tug St Denys, with its distinctive tall funnels built in 1929, is berthed here and forms a part of the fascinating Cornwall Maritime Museum.
Modern Falmouth plays a dual role as commercial port and holiday centre. The docks continue to be used by merchant shipping although this is perhaps overshadowed by the town's increasing popularity as a yachting and tourist destination. From the pier boat-trips will allow visitors to explore the upper reaches of Carrick Roads, and passenger ferries cross the estuary to St Mawes and Flushing. Further on is the harbour, full of trawlers, nets and local colour; during the summer months there are periodic races between Falmouth's old gaff-rigged working boats; the town has become a leading Cornish holiday resort, popular all the year round. Apart from its nautical attractions, Falmouth can offer good bathing beaches and stimulating cliff walks giving panoramic views of the maze-like wooded river country inland, as well as over the rich blue waters of Falmouth Bay.
To the north of Falmouth, close by the King Harry Ferry, the hanging woods of Trelissick Gardens sweep down to the water's edge of Carrick Roads, on an estate that is almost made an island by the River Fal and its creeks. These are the grounds of a classical mansion landscaped in 1825 by Thomas Daniell, who constructed the carriage drive along which a woodland walk now runs. The house was later inherited by the Copelands, who between 1937/55 laid out the beautiful wooded gardens as presented today. Renowned for their collections of mature trees and flowering shrubs, including magnolias, azaleas, rhododendrons and hydrangeas, Trelissick Gardens are quite stunning in early summer. Special features include a summerhouse with a Saxon cross and a Victorian water tower with a steep conical roof and squirrel weather vane. Best viewed from the winding paths and spacious lawns, there is an abundance of colour all year round; as the woodland walks drop down to the banks of Carrick Roads there are spectacular views southward toward Pendennis Castle.