Winchester
 Royal Britain |  Castles |  Cathedrals |  Roman Britain |
A trip to this secluded, ancient city is a must for all visitors. Steeped in England's long history, Winchester is about more than the medieval glory of its magnificent cathedral. Historic relics are everywhere in the well-preserved ambience of England's former capital. In the 1st century AD the Romans established a settlement on the west side of the River Itchen naming it Venta Belgarum, 'the town of the Belgae', the tribe that had occupied much of what is now Hampshire. Through the following three centuries Roman Winchester became fully urbanised with a grid pattern of streets, public buildings, large houses and a defensive wall. It had, in fact, now acquired a recognised status and importance as the fifth largest town in Roman
Another 20 years after the establishment of the first Roman settlement here passed before Roman Winchester was laid out in the familiar grid pattern, and the forum, the central hub of all Roman towns, was initially constructed in about AD100 but then considerably enlarged some 50 years later.
Venta was originally protected by a basic ditch and earth rampart and had to wait until the early 3rd century before defensive stone walls were constructed; these new walls enclosed an area of some 140 acres, making it the fifth largest town in Roman Britain. Despite its prosperity, once the legions had abandoned British shores, Venta Belgarum, like other urban settlements, witnessed a sharp decline in social standards and it increasingly became safer for the citizenry to seek sanctuary in the countryside.
There is very little that is visible of the old Roman town above ground; mostly the remains of Venta must be examined in the local museum. The most readily accessible relic of Roman Winchester in situ is a fragment of the city-wall running south from the river on the city?s eastern side. In addition, a portion of mosaic has been re-laid on the floor beneath the entrance to the Deanery, south of the Cathedral. A near-perfect geometric mosaic is also on display in the museum.
However, it was Alfred the Great (AD871-99), arguably the greatest of all English kings, who really underscored Winchester's importance when it developed as a renowned centre of religion, learning and the arts through its monastic institutions; even more significantly, Alfred established Winchester as the capital of his kingdom of Wessex. From the time of Alfred to that of Henry II (1154-89), Winchester continued to develop as one of the most influential cities in Europe and ranked alongside London in English affairs. This high-profile status was affirmed by William the Conqueror (1066-87), who also made the town his capital, being crowned in both cities.
It was in Winchester too, that William commissioned the local monks to compile and write the famous Domesday Book in 1086. The town reached the peak of its prosperity in about 1150 when it was probably the second largest township in England, highly developed and densely built-up. The first Minster to be built in Winchester was raised by Cenwalh, a 7th century king of Wessex; only traces remain of this structure. In 1079, the present great cathedral was founded and completed some 300-yrs later, resulting in a building whose elements range from early Norman to Perpendicular in style. Rather than dominate the city the cathedral sits long and low among the trees and lawns of its lovely close; at 556 ft it is the longest medieval church in Europe.
The initial Norman structure was begun by Bishop Wakelin and in the 14th century William of Wykeham transformed it into what we see today. Outstanding internal features include a carved Norman font of black Tournai marble, the 14th century misericords (choir stalls), and some rather striking monuments of which William of Wykeham's Chantry is one of the best. A plain slab commemorates the renowned novelist Jane Austen; the grave of Izaak Walton, the angler's muse, lies in the Silkstede chapel and the unlamented William (Rufus) II is interred in the presbytery. The famous Cathedral Library is the oldest book-room in Europe, and contains priceless copies of the Winchester Bible and Bede's Ecclesiastical History. The cathedral is dedicated to St Swithun, a 9th century bishop of Winchester who died in AD862 and at his own request was buried outside Old Minster, so that the rain would fall on his grave. On 15th July 971 his remains were moved inside the cathedral, hence the legend of his curse that if it rains on that day a further 40 days of rain would follow; the shrine of St Swithun is found in the retro choir.
Winchester Castle, where both Henry III and Henry VIII's elder brother Arthur, were born, was destroyed during the Civil War of 1642-9, and only the 13th century Great Hall remains to us. Considered to be the best medieval hall in the country, after Westminster Hall, it was here that Henry V received the French envoys in 1415 before launching his invasion, which culminated in Agincourt. Here it was too, that Sir Walter Raleigh received his death sentence in 1603, and Judge Jefferies held one of his 'Bloody Assizes' after Monmouth's rebellion in 1685. On the west wall hangs the famous representation of King Arthur's Round Table, believed to date back to the 13th century, possibly commissioned by Edward I. The table was repainted in the early 16th century incorporating a Tudor rose motif and a portrait of King Arthur, who bears an uncanny resemblance to a young Henry VIII.
Winchester College, founded in 1382 by Bishop William of Wykeham as the College of St Mary, is the oldest public school in England. Originally conceived as a place of education for 'poor and needy scholars', 70 places being created initially, the school now educates few but the wealthy and privileged, scholars being known as 'Wykehamists' after the founder. The cloisters are part of the original 14th century structure, but much of the medieval college buildings have been added to or altered over the intervening six centuries, the chapel being extensively restored in the 19th century. There are guided tours of the college in summer. Also standing in College Street is the house at No 8 where Jane Austen moved into in 1817, and at the top of the same street is the 13th century King's Gate, one of the city's original medieval gateways, housing the tiny St Swithun's Church.
The black gowns and ruffed capes of the pensioners of the Hospital of St Cross are a familiar sight in Winchester. St Cross is a group of picturesque almshouses founded by Bishop Henry de Blois in 1136, and is the oldest charitable institution still functioning in England - the needy may still apply for the 'Wayfarer's Dole' of bread and ale at the Porter's Lodge.
Near to Cathedral Close lie the ruins of 12th century Wolvesey Castle, former residence of the Bishops' of Winchester; the castle is another casualty of the Civil War. Close to these ruins stand the surviving wing of the Bishops' Palace, built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1674. Among the ancient buildings lining Cathedral Close are the 13th century Deanery, the 17th century Pilgrim's School and the Pilgrim's Hall with its 14th century hammer-beam roof.
Standing in the High Street is the august bronze statue of King Alfred, erected in 1901, and the striking neo-Gothic Old Guildhall, dating from 1713, which rings its curfew-bell at 8pm each day; here too, is the Gothic High Cross, a 15th century market cross. The Westgate Museum is housed on top of the ancient 13th century Westgate, and the City Museum, containing prehistoric, Roman and Saxon artefacts, is located in the city Square. Lying beside the River Itchen is the City Mill, built in 1774 on a medieval mill site.