Londonderry: city
 Cathedrals |
The compact expanse of Londonderry's city centre can most easily be appreciated, in its entirety, from the top of the great 17 th century walls that still, miraculously, stand unbroken and complete - this despite the vicious onslaught endured during the 15-week siege of 1688. Londonderry's city walls remain one of the best-preserved defences in Europe, about a mile in length, 18-feet thick, reinforced by stout bulwarks and bastions with a wide parapeted rampart to top it off. Within the enclosure of the walls, the original late medieval street pattern has remained, including the four major gateways - Shipquay, Ferryquay, Bishop and Butcher; all roads radiate out in straight lines from the central Diamond.
A tour of the old city of Derry can be had from the vantage point atop the old walls. A start can be made from Shipquay Gate, which originally included a drawbridge to close against would be attackers.
Steps to the rear of the gate offer access to the wall, which is roughly two-stories high throughout its length. Walking clockwise, to beyond the smaller New Gate, the Church of Ireland Chapel hoves into view with its impressive tower projecting above the walls - during the Siege of Derry this tower had wooden platforms attached to it for use by the defenders. Nearby is St Columba's Cathedral, built between 1628-33 in a striking Gothic style; it was the first post-Reformation Protestant cathedral to be erected in the British Isles. Lying in the porch is a cannon-shell catapulted there during the siege, to which was attached the besieger's terms of surrender for the town. In the cathedral's chapter house museum are 17 th century relics form the siege and various interesting object d'art .
Approaching Bishop's Gate one can see the remaining tower of the old Derry gaol, which housed a long list of notable inmates including Wolf Tone, leader of the United Irishmen, and Eamon de Valera, later to be President of Ireland. Descent from the wall allows for full appreciation of the carved ornamentation on Bishop's Gate; it was constructed in the style of a triumphal arch to honour William of Orange who represented order at this time, not sectarianism. Standing inside the wall is the Bishop's Palace, resplendent with columns; here Cecile Frances (1818-95), wife of Bishop Alexander, composed the famous hymns ‘There is a Green Hill Far Away' and ‘All Things Bright and Beautiful'. Close by is the Courthouse, built of white sandstone from Dungiven in crude Greek Revival style.
Continuing northward, St Columba's Church or Long Tower, is in evidence beyond the confines of the wall. Built originally in 1784, the Church occupies the precincts of the famous medieval Tempull Mor or Great Church, which had its origins in the early 1160's, all traces of which have long since vanished. This section of wall incorporates the Double Bastion where resides the awesome ‘Roaring Meg', an enormous cannon dedicated by the London Fishmonger's Guild. Meg's discharge was said to be more frightening than the actual damage inflicted upon an enemy. At this point too is the Verbal Arts Centre; standing within the walls it is a unique project aimed at sustaining and promoting Gaelic culture, legend and folklore.
The nearby Royal Bastion was constructed between 1826-8, and lying close-up against the wall itself is the Apprenticeboys Hall, built in 1937. Diametrically opposed to this, both geographically and politically, stretching away in a valley beyond the outer wall is the Catholic Bogside district. Here stands, in defiant isolation, the famously provocative wall bearing the Free Derry Mural and declaring that ‘You are now entering Free Derry'.
Continuing along the city wall we pass the First Derry Presbyterian Church, originally built in 1690, rebuilt during the Georgian period and added to in 1863. Importantly, this was one of the first churches permitted-to-be-built within the city walls not affiliated to the Church of Ireland. Passing-over Butcher's Gate provides a fine view over much of the new investment in the city. A part of this new complex is Calgach Genealogy Centre where The Fifth Province can be viewed, a multi-media experience journeying through Ireland's legendary past and exploring its heritage. Situated close by is The Nerve Centre, again focusing on cultural themes related to old Derry.
At Magazine Gate in the north-east corner of the wall is a modern recreation of an ancient tower house, the much-acclaimed Tower Museum. That it is so highly praised is due to its being the only museum in Ireland that makes an effort to confront the internal events of the last 30-years with anything near objectivity. Beyond the wall at this point is the Guildhall, built in 1887 with a neo-Gothic ecclesiastical appearance; it has been consumed by fire on three separate occasions. The building functions as the headquarters of the City Council and its interior depicts Derry's history through a series of vast stained-glass windows.
Very near the Guildhall is the Harbour Museum containing a great deal of historically interesting items from the period when the harbour was an active commercial port, shipping linen and people to the New World. Located beside Craigavan Bridge is the Foyle Valley Railway Centre, a museum representing Derry's years as a rail destination. The highlight of the visit is a short rail trip up the Foyle Valley on a steam locomotive. On the opposite bank of the Foyle is the Workhouse Museum and Library, an excellent example of thoughtful reconstruction and renovation. The bottom floor of the Workhouse is occupied by the public library, while the upper floors are the unaltered sleeping quarters of the female occupants of this former poor house; the latter provides a fascinating and shocking insight into the deprivation and harsh regime endured by these poor wretches.
Lying to the north-west of Londonderry is the Amelia Earhart Centre, commemorating the spot where she accidentally landed her aeroplane in 1932, having just completed the first female solo crossing of the Atlantic. She managed to mistake the small village of Ballyarnett for Paris!