Aberdeen

Cathedrals

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Aberdeen, Scotland

Known as Devana to the Romans, Aberdeen was granted its first Royal Charter by King William the Lion in 1179; it is from the 12th century that the city's recorded history dates. Aberdeen derives its motto of 'Bon Accord' from the rallying cry of the Bruces. Robert the Bruce, Aberdeen's greatest benefactor, campaigned here against the Comyns, rival contenders for the throne of Scotland in the late 13th century. The city's early history is bespattered with blood, especially the period between 1297 and 1336, when the protracted and bitterly fought Anglo-Scottish wars resulted in Aberdeen being thrice attacked, and finally burned to the ground by Edward III's English forces. New Aberdeen was to arise from the ashes of 1336 and slowly spread northwards toward the River Don; Old and New Aberdeen did not officially merge until 1891.

St Machar's Cathedral, Aberdeen, Scotland   King's College, Aberdeen, Scotland

Old Aberdeen remains an enchanting backwater, where old houses and shops of pink granite line cobbled streets and narrow 'wynds' or alleys. This contrasts sharply with the neo-classical style of much of New Aberdeen, constructed of Grey granite flecked with mica that glitters like silver when caught by the sunlight.

In the Old City stands St Machar's Cathedral, its two squat towers fortified when built in the turbulent 14th century. Bishop Dunbar added the cathedral spires in the 16th century; he was also responsible for the heraldic ceiling of panelled oak, with its 48 shields depicting the arms of various notables. Another outstanding building in the Old City is the medieval Kings College, the university of Old Aberdeen, founded in 1494 by Bishop Elphinstone. Kings College Chapel, completed in 1505, still has its original tower topped by an unusual, but quite beautiful stone crown - this was designed in honour of James IV, the university's co-founder and first patron. Marischal College, originally built in 1593, but rebuilt in 1844, has a soaring Perpendicular façade and remains one of the finest granite buildings in the world. Also in Old Aberdeen is the attractive Wallace Tower, built in 1616. In 1963 it was dismantled stone by stone to make way for redevelopment, and now stands 2 miles away overlooking the picturesque bridge, Brig o' Balgownie, standing amid 16th cent cottages. One of the oldest bridges in Britain still open to traffic, it was begun in 1285 and completed at the command of Robert Bruce about 1320.

The 16th century Provost Ross's House in Shiprow, is one of the city's oldest houses, and is named after its most illustrious owner John Ross, Provost of Aberdeen in the 18th century. Rescued from decay by the National Trust, part of the house is now open to visitors. Another ancient 16th century building is the Provost Skene's House, and similarly, it too had to be rescued from the ravages of decay, restoration work beginning in 1951. The house has been decorated and furnished in several appropriate styles, its most remarkable feature being its chapel; here restorers uncovered a ceiling of early 17th century religious paintings. The top floor has become a folk museum, and the Georgian room has reminders of the Duke of Cumberland, who rested here for several weeks before his defeat of Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1746.

Towers and steeples embellish Aberdeen's skyline, and one of the most illustrious is the spire of St Nicholas's Kirk, standing just off the main thoroughfare of Union Street. This, the city's main church, is divided by a 12th and 13th centuries transept into the East and West Churches. Part of the transept, Drum's Aisle, contains a fine medieval brass and a 48 bell carillon is rung daily in summertime; this is the largest carillon (set of bells) in Britain, and visitors may see the bells after some recitals. Aberdeen Art Gallery houses sculptural works by Hepworth, Moore and Epstein, and paintings by Monet, Degas, Renoir and Reynolds among others. Part of the Old Tolbooth remains, the scene of public executions until 1857, and still preserves the 'Aberdeen Maiden' - said to have been the model for the French guillotine.